Main components inside a PC and facts about them
Main components inside a PC and facts
about them
Chapters:
Main Components for PC
Main Components for PC’s
A PC (Personal Computer) needs
several essential components for it to function. Here’s a detailed breakdown of
the components and their role:
Central Processing Unit (CPU):
Role: The CPU is the
brain of the computer it handles all of it data processing and computation
tasks.
Examples:
1. The CPU fetches the instructions
from the RAM and decodes them into several commands that it can execute.
2. It carries out all of the arithmetic like addition,
subtraction, multiplication, division, and logic (AND, OR, NOT) operations.
3. It’s also responsible for moving al the data between the
CPU, RAM, and other hardware components. This also includes tasks like reading
from and writing to memory.
4. The CPU also manages data transfers between the CPU and
I/O devices which can be hard drives, keyboards, and mice.
5. It can manage multiple tasks by quickly switching them,
giving the illusion that they’re being executed simultaneously.
6. The power management is also adjusted by the CPU and
performance settings to balance it’s efficiency and speed.
7. The CPU also communicates with the other hardware
components like the GPU, RAM, and peripherals to coordinate tasks.
8. The CPU is also the one which can run multiple operating
systems on the same physical hardware by simulating hardware features.
There are much more examples of what the CPU can do.
Features to Consider: There
are many CPU’s out there and the main thing to focus on when buying a CPU is to
check the CPU Clock speed, numbers of cores and threads, power consumption, and
its architecture (LGA 1151, LGA 1200, AM3, AM4, etc...)
Motherboard:
Role: The motherboard
is basically the main circuit board that connects all of the hardware
components all together and make them able to work together.
Features to Consider: There are some features about a motherboard that you may want
to watch for.
1. The form factor of the mother as
there are 4 different sizes of a motherboard, biggest one is E-ATX (Extra-ATX),
2nd biggest is ATX, the third one is considered the average size
which is MATX (Micro-ATX), then the smallest is ITX.
2. There are also different socket
types in a motherboard like AM4, AM3, LGA 1200, LGA 2011, LGA 1055, etc.
3. Same with RAM slots like the max
speed of the RAM that the motherboard can handle and the amount of RAM slots
that a motherboard can have, the average board has 4 ram slots and the ITX
boards have 2 slots.
4. The number of ports on a
motherboard can also differ from which motherboard you. And the last one can be
built in features on the motherboard like Wi-Fi although they may be a bit more
expensive than average.
All the MAIN Features of a Motherboard:
CPU Socket
The CPU Socket is the physical interface that houses the CPU.
There are also different types of CPU’s that requires specific socket types,
such as LGA’s 1200, 1151, 1155, AM4, AM3, etc.
Ram Slots
The Ram Slots can hold in the RAM modules, Ram slots can
range from 2 to 8 Ram Slots depending which motherboard you get. (4 being the
average)
There are also different types of RAMS, for example like DDR3
or DDR4 rams. Currently the most common RAM is DDR4, and the latest being DDR5.
PCI Express (PCIe) Slots
The PCIe Slots can be used for various expansion cards,
mainly GPUs but they can also be used for, Wi-Fi cards, USB-C 3.0 ports, SSD
NVME slots etc.
PCIe slots also vary in sizes (x1, x4, x8, x16) and also
generations (PCIe 2.0, 3.0, 4.0).
Storage Connectors
Simple, it connects the storage drives. SATA ports can be
used for HDDs (Hard drives) and SSDs (Solid State Drives). Or M.2 slots for SSD
NVMe or SATA NVMe.
Form Factors
Motherboards have different sizes and
layouts which there are 4 types.
E-ATX (Extra ATX) is the biggest one
at 305 x 330 mm which is massive.
ATX is the 2nd biggest at 305
mm x 244 mm which is pretty big.
MATX (Micro-ATX) is the 2nd
smallest at 244 x 244 mm which is average.
MITX (Mini-ITX) is the smallest one
at only 170 x 170 mm which is really small.
Random Access Memory (RAM):
Role: The RAM
temporarily stores data for quick access during operations.
Examples:
1. The RAM stores data that is
actively being used or processed so that is can be quickly be accessed by the
CPU.
It serves as a medium where the CPU can store or retrieve
data that is essential for the software and application execution. This
interaction reduces the time the CPU has to spend accessing slower storage
media.
2. Unlike the permanent storage like HDDs or SSDs have, RAM
is volatile, meaning it loses all of it stored information when the system is
turned off.
3. RAM allows the system to have smooth operations when
running multiple applications or tasks simultaneously.
4. Reading data from RAM is incredibly fast compared to other
types of storage. This speed is essential for quick computational tasks.
5. When you open a file from a storage, it gets loaded from
your permanent storage into RAM for faster access and loading speed.
6. In graphic intensive tasks or real time system controls,
the RAM provides its really fast speed for quick computations and data
manipulation.
The type, speed, and size of RAM can really impact the
overall performance of a computer, especially for tasks that requires a lot of
ram or fast data processing. For example, more ram might be needed for video
editing, 3D rendering, or running complex simulators.
Here is a little tip as well, 2 sticks of ram can be faster
than 1 stick of ram. It’s called dual channel memory and it provides the CPU a
wider and faster data path for the CPU and can provide the PC a 10 – 20% boost
of performance.
Features to consider: RAM can also have different speeds (measured in MHz), amount
of storage in the ram (measured in GB), and type (DDR3, DDR4, DDR5).
Storage:
Role: Storage holds on
data like RAM but instead for a temporary amount of time, it stores inside your
hard drive permanently.
Features to Consider: Storage
capacity, form factor, and read / write speed.
Storage Capacity
There are many different types of storage capacity, for
example: 128GB, 250GB, 256GB, 500GB, 512GB, 1,000GB (1TB), etc.
There are 3 types of form factor for
storage:
1. The slowest form factor for
storage is called the Hard Drive / HDD. The HDD is the slowest due to it’s a reading
thing inside of the hard drive that needs to spin for its data and that has its
limits, although hard drives are really cheap.
2. The second fastest form factor of
storage is the SSD SATA. The Solid-State Drive Serial Advanced Technology
Attachment / SSD SATA. SSD SATA’s are faster than HDD because they don’t have a
spinning attachment inside of their storage case, instead it uses a cable to
instantly send the files into your computer.
3. The fastest one is called SSD NVMe, just like SSD SATA it
is a Solid-State Drive expect its NVMe / Nonvolatile memory express. Now how is
this faster than the SATA version? The SSD NVMe instead of using a cable to
transfer data like the SATA, the NVMe is installed inside the motherboard for
instant data transfer and no needing it to go through a wire with a maximum
speed of read and write speed.
Read / Write Speed
Let’s now talk about read and write speed, read and right
speeds in storage refers to how quickly the data can be read from or written to
a storage device. Now these speeds can be critical for a range of different
tasks, from booting up an operating system like windows, a videogame, or
transferring huge files into another storage.
Read Speed
The read speed refers to how quickly data can be retrieved
from the storage device. The more faster read speeds generally mean quicker
file access, examples: Faster game loading times, smoother performance when
launching applications, faster operating system load up, etc.
Write Speed
Writing speed indicates how fast data can be saved or written
to the storage device. The more faster write speeds make it quicker to save
files, write data to the disks for tasks like video editing, and installing
software. (Although installing software can also be bottleneck by your internet
speed as the speed for the SSD SATA needing to be bottlenecked are around 500
MB/s internet speed).
Measuring Units
The read and write speed that storage
uses are usually measured in Megabytes per seconds (MB/s) or nowadays sometimes
even Gigabytes per Second (GB/s).
For HDD (the slowest one), read and
write speeds can range from 40 – 60 MB/s.
For SSD SATA (the 2nd
slowest / faster one), read and write speeds can 10x up to 400 – 600 MB/s.
For SSD NVMe (the fastest one), read
and write speeds can range from 1,500 – 12,000 MB/s. (1.5 – 12 GB/s)
Now a lot of these stuff can range from which brand you buy
it from, so make sure to do your research on which storage you’re buying either
it’s HDD for games and for giant storage stuff, or SSD for games and faster
loading up speeds, or SSD NVMe for applications, games, video editing,
professional work stuff.
Extra tip: SSD NVMe’s can be
bottlenecked by the type of motherboard you have. Most motherboards have their
NVMe socket at PCIe 3.0 x4 which is usually maxed at around 3,500 MB/s read /
write. Then there’s PCIe 4.0 x4 which is maxed at around 7,500 MB/s. And
finally, the newest generation is PCIe 5.0 x4 which is currently unknown for
its max but the current fastest PCIe 5.0 is 12,400 MB/s or 12.4 GB/s. Hopefully
this helps you out and make sure to do your research!
Graphics Processing Unit (GPU):
Role: GPU’s can do a lot of stuff, here’s a list of the main things a GPU can
do:
Graphics Rendering
The GPU can handle rendering of the images, animations, and
videos to be displayed on the computers screen. For example, like you playing
games, the GPU will render the game for you. The GPU does this by converting
the data it gets into a signal your monitor can understand and output a video.
Parallel Processing
GPU’s are designed for massively parallel tasks, a GPU has
hundreds or thousands of cores that can perform calculations simultaneously,
which makes it extremely efficient at tasks like image rendering.
Video Playback
The GPU manages the decoding and is able to playback a video
content, offloading this work from the CPU into the GPU.
Real-time Graphics in Gaming
The GPU with its cores, can process complex mathematical
calculations for it to be able to produce real-time graphics in video games,
offering a really good looking gaming experience, although it may take an
effect on your FPS if you don’t have a GPU that can handle extreme graphics.
Compute Operations
Some GPUs can be used for general purpose computing tasks (also
referred to as GPGPU: General Purpose computing on Graphics Processing Units.)
This includes mathematical models, scientific simulations, and even some
machine learning tasks.
Offloading Work from CPU
Just like when the GPU can take some of the work from the CPU
when during Video Playback, the GPU can also take on graphically intensive
tasks for the CPU to free up some of its usage allowing it to focus on other
different computations and processes.
Image and Video Editing
GPUs can accelerate rendering times in image and video
editing software, making the editing process way more efficient than if you
used the CPU to export your image / video.
3D Rendering
Not just are GPUs really good at exporting Images and Video
editing but also 3D rendering stuff. It can perform these high-quality render
of 3D images for mainly professional work like 3D modeling, animation, and
computer-aided design (CAD).
Cryptocurrency Mining
This is a controversial part of GPUs as tons of gamers hate
Crypto mining. Because of the GPUs super powerful parts and that they can do
repetitive calculations, that means GPUs have a powerful “hash rate” which can
be used for Crypto mining. If you don’t know what Crypto currency Mining, it’s
basically a digital / virtual currency that can be mined and exchanged for A
LOT of money which is why they do it. The way GPUs get the Crypto is uncertain
for me as I don’t understand it but do your research on it.
Virtual Reality (VR)
Virtual Reality is a computer-generated simulator of a three-dimensional
image or environment that can be interacted using special electronic equipment
such as a helmet with screen inside. Also, that VR requires a high graphical
performance for you to have a smooth and immersive VR experience which is where
GPUs come into play.
Features to Consider: VRAM, core speed, architecture, number of RT cores (if ray
tracing is enabled), and CUDA cores (if NVIDIA).
VRAM (Video Random Access Memory)
VRAM is kind of like RAM except its for GPUs. VRAM serves as
the GPUs memory, storing textures, frame buffers. And other graphical data.
More VRAM can allow for higher resolutions, more complex
textures, and more demanding graphical tasks without it stuttering or
slowdowns.
Core Speed (Clock Speed)
The Core speed measures how many cycles the GPU can execute
per second, it’s usually measured in megahertz (MHz) or gigahertz (GHz).
The higher core speeds generally equals to faster data
processing, which leads to better performance in graphic intensive applications
and games.
Architecture
Architecture refers to the design and technology behind the
GPU. Each architecture generation usually brings various improvements like
better performance, (maybe) lower power consumption, and new features.
Examples can be like NVIDIA’s Turning, Ampere, DLSS 2.0, DLSS
3.0, or AMD’s FSR, RDNA, RDNA 2, upcoming RDNA 3.
If you’re buying a GPU, look for the newer architectures / newer
GPUs as they usually offer better performance, efficiency, and features
compared to older ones.
RT Cores (Ray Tracing Cores)
(Now RT Cores are only available in these GPUs, (NVIDIA) RTX
2000’s series, RTX 3000’s series, RTX 4000’s series, (AMD) RX 6000’S series,
and RX 7000’s series.)
RT Cores are specialized cores which are designed to handle
real time ray tracing tasks, which involves in simulating the way light
interacts with objects to generate a more realistic image / gameplay.
Although Ray tracing may enable more realistic lighting,
shadows, and reflections in “supported” games, it can affect your FPS a lot and
usually costs a lot of money for a computer to handle ray tracing.
CUDA Cores (Compute Unified Device Architecture Cores)
(Cuda Cores are only limited to NVIDIA GPUs, not Intel, not
AMD.)
Cuda cores are designed for handling various types of
computational tasks.
The most CUDA Cores means better performance in parallel
computing tasks, which includes gaming, video rendering, etc.
MUST READ
Although these terms provide a frame work for understanding
how capable GPUs are, make sure to keep in mind that these are not the sole
indicators of performance. There are other factors for example like memory
speed, bandwidth, and driver optimization can also significantly impact the
real-world performance. So always make sure to look at the combination of these
specification and real-world benchmarks on like YouTube to get a comprehensive
view of a GPUs capabilities.
Power Supply Unit (PSU):
The power supply job is to supply the PC components enough
power for it to work. There are a lot of certain stuff to look for when buying
a power supply which I will go over:
Information about the Power Supply
The Power Supply is a vital component in a computer and I
will be writing about some information about it for you to get a rough
understanding of it!
Voltage Conversion
The Voltage Conversion rate, converts AC (Alternating
Current) power from your wall outlet (or the thing your PC is getting power
from) and turns it into DC (Direct Current) power suitable for your computer
components.
Now here’s the thing, if you’re looking for a power supply
and you realise that sticker with an 80+ White / Bronze / Silver / Gold /
Platinum / Titanium rating? That sticker / rating indicates the efficiency of
the power supply.
Picture of Efficiency usage on each
tier:
Picture from: What is Power Supply Efficiency and Why
is it Important? (velocitymicro.com)
W = WATTS
White 80 Plusa
The White 80 Plus rating is the worst efficiency of AC to DC
conversion rate. 80 Plus assures the power supply an 80% conversion rate. Let’s
say your power supply takes up 500w, during 100% load it would actually take 625w
(500w / .80% = 625w), at 50%load your
using 312.5w instead of 250, and at 20%load your using 125w instead of 100w, so in reality
you’re taking up more electricity that it seems like. This is the least
efficient rating one to have, and it’s usually better off avoiding this rating
due to its low efficiency, AND it’s also unsurprisingly the cheapest power
supplies to get. So, if your looking to get a cheap power supply, maybe throw
that idea out the window and get minimum bronze, UNLESS your on a TIGHT budget.
Onto the 80 Plus Bronze.
80
Plus Bronze
The Bronze 80 Plus rating is the 2nd worst
efficiency but it’s a bit better. Bronze power supplies are usually recommended
for budget builds and most people say bronze is fine. Now for bronze, depending
on how much your power supply is loading, depends on the efficiency. If you
look at the picture above it shows the 20% and 100% load having an efficiency
of 82% efficiency. Although the 50% load having a higher efficiency at 85%. So,
if your using a 500w bronze power supply, at 100% load you would be using 610w,
at 50% load it would be 294w instead of 250w, and at 20% load it would be 122w
instead of 100w. Bronze power supplies are recommended for PC’s price ranging
around 300 to 450 dollars in my opinion. Onto the 80 Plus Silver.
80 Plus
Silver
After Bronze, its silver. Silver Power supplies are pretty
unusual for me because I’ve personally never seen one or I just never search
for it. I’ve ever only known, White, Bronze, Gold, Platinum, and Titanium but
never silver. Silver 80 Plus again has different efficiency at certain loads.
At 20% and 100% Load it has an efficiency rating of 85%, and at 50% load its
88%. So again, it’s a bit better than Bronze. Now let’s do the test again, if
you were using a 500w 80 Plus Silver power supply, at 100% load you would be
using 588w instead of 500w, at 50% load it would be 284w instead of 250w, at
20% it would be 118w instead of 100w. Now I’m not sure on the average PC price
range to use a silver power supply and I think that’s up to the buyer’s choice,
as prices may range in different countries but I think 400 to 550 dollars is my
opinion. Onto the 80 Plus Gold.
80 Plus Gold
The 80 Plus Gold in MY
OPINION is probably the best choice of any PC, it’s not too expensive, and its
efficiency is just perfect as it’s right in the middle of the chart. I actually
have a 80 Plus gold power supply right now that I am using as I found it for
relatively cheap and it’s treating me really well. The 80 Plus Gold power
supply has a efficiency rating of 87% for 20% and 100% load, while it has 90%
efficiency rating during 50% load. Doing the math if you were using a 500w
power supply, it would use 575w instead of 500w, during 50% load it would use 278w
instead of 250w, and at 20% load it would use 115w instead of 100w. Compared to
the 80 Plus White efficiency, you can save up to 12.5% less on your computer
electricity bill! The average build I would probably recommend for this power
supply rating would be 550 to 1150 dollars, as the 80 Plus Gold has an AMAZING
sweet spot, 550 dollars if your able to get a good deal like me and up to 1150
dollars as gold rating can handle some serious components. The only reason I
say 1150 as the max is because if your spending that much on a PC, I think you
can at least buy a better rating power supply to save you some money on the
bill. Onto the 80 Plus Platinum.
80
Plus Platinum
The 80 Plus Platinum in my
area is a huge price jump as they are only available in power supply units which
are 850w or more. So, if you really have money left over then I guess this
would be good for you. The Platinum has all different efficiency depending on
the load. For 20% Load you would have 90% efficiency, 50% Load would give you a
92% efficiency, and 100% Load would give you the least at 89%. Theoretically,
if you had a 500w 80 Plus Platinum, for 100% load you would be using 562w instead
of 500w, at 50% you would be using 272w instead of 250w, and 20% it would be 111w
instead of 100w. For this power supply, I would probably expect builds which
are 1150 to 2000 dollars because this power supply is EXPENSIVE and
probably a GPU over a RTX 3080. I don’t have much else to talk about this power
supply so onto the most efficient, and expensive one… The 80 Plus Titanium.
80 Plus
Titanium
The 80 Plus Titanium is an
absolute insane tier of a power supply to have. Titanium power supplies are
very expensive and they usually are 900w+ or 1000w+ minimum. Which is insane
saying that you can basically have an RTX 4090 in your machine with this power
supply. This tier is also different than all of the other tiers. The more load
the power supply is using, the more efficient it is. If you look at the
picture, the 20% load is 90%, the 50% load is 92%, and the 100% load is 94%.
I’ll have my opinions on this efficiency after I talk about how much u would be
using. Theoretically again, let’s say there’s a 500w TITANIUM Power
supply, at 20% load, you would be using 111w instead of 100w, at 50% load it
would be 272w instead of 250w, and at 100% max efficiency it would be 532w instead
of 500w. Now for a machine like this, the PC would have to be like 2000+
dollars because that’s the only system that would need this power supply tier.
Now let me clear myself below:
Making clear of my ways of
showing
The reason I say (numbers)w
instead of 500w is because I want to show how much it uses and the amount of
wattage you get. I am not saying that even though its using more, IT DOESN’T
MEAN ITS BAD. I am just showing the original and its usage and also that there
will be probably never or one day in the future but like a while in the future
that there will be a 100% ratio from AC to DC. Also, the way I show it, the
20%, 50%, and 100% load have all different percentage, so I decide to make them
the wattage of the load so it looks more sense. Below this I am going to make a
chart of all of them and the wattage difference between the worst one and how
much you save.
This is how I do the math.
(Wattage) / 0.(Efficiency) = (AC)
100% load is 500 watts, 50%
load is 250 watts, and 20% load is 100 watts.
Efficiency is 80%, 82%, 85%
etc…
I will make a sheet which
goes over all of the wattage that each power supply uses, 20% load, 50% load,
and 100% load and compare it all and percentage it. Then I will combine it all
and get the finalized percentage of power that you save.
Also that the White 80 Plus
will be the 0% so that will be the standard and after the percentage difference
that you save, I will add how much watt you save as well below it.
Power Supply Savings Chart
|
Loading |
80 Plus |
Bronze |
Silver |
Gold |
Platinum |
Titanium |
|
20% |
125W |
122W |
118W |
115W |
111W |
111W |
|
50% |
312.5W |
294W |
284W |
278W |
272W |
272W |
|
100% |
625W |
610W |
588W |
575W |
562W |
532W |
|
How much you save |
80 Plus |
Bronze |
Silver |
Gold |
Platinum |
Titanium |
|
20% |
0% |
2.5% |
5.9% |
8.7% |
12.6% |
12.6% |
|
50% |
0% |
6.3% |
10% |
12.4% |
14.9% |
14.9% |
|
100% |
0% |
2.5% |
5.9% |
8.7% |
11.2% |
17.5% |
|
Average |
0% |
3.7% |
7.3% |
10% |
12.9% |
15% |
|
Watt Saved |
0W |
36.5W |
72.5W |
94.5W |
117.5W |
147.5W |
Multiple Voltage Rails
There are multiple voltage
rails inside of the power supply so then it is able to give the provided
voltage levels needed by the various components inside of your PC. It can be
like the motherboard, CPU, GPU, CPU cooler, RAM, SSD, fans, etc…
Wattage
The Wattage on the power
supply indicates the maximum power output that the Power supply will be able to
deliver to your PC.
When you’re building a PC,
it is ESSENTIAL to pick a power supply with the right wattage so then the PC
can be more stable and longevity. If you pick a power supply too low can be
troubling because the power supply may start making the PC malfunction and
makes your monitor start crashing, or you may lose a big amount of performance.
TIP:
When picking for a power supply, it is better for you to read the descriptions
of the GPU as it is the main power consumer, it will usually give you a power
supply wattage recommendation. If the description doesn’t tell you that, it is
best to search online on google for it. If you cannot find it, then you should
go to a website which can calculate the total wattage that your PC will take up
and it is BEST to go over about 150 watts on your power supply if you’re
willing to do any over clocking OR if your PC does power spikes as that can be
pretty rare but when it does happen it can cause the PC to crash. Better safe
than broken.
Connectors
The connectors role is to
supply power to different parts of the computers. The connectors should already
come with the power supply or when you buy it should be inside of the box with
the power supply. There 4 power connectors that come with the power supply.
The first one is the 24 pin
ATX connector. This connector plugs into the motherboard, usually the connector
is on the right side of the board. The connector will supply the motherboard
power and allow it to perform.
The second one is the 4 / 8
pin CPU connector. This connector plugs usually connects on the top
motherboard, this may vary on the motherboard you have. This will give power to
the CPU and allow it to turn on and perform.
The Third one is the 6/8 pin
PCIe connector. This will connect into the GPU side. This is usually connecting
to the side of the GPU on the right, or if you get a really big GPU / 3 fan
GPUs, it might connect near the middle part of the GPU. Depending on the GPU it
may need more two 8 pin PCIe adapter, sometimes one 6 pin PCIe adapter, or
maybe one 8 PCIe adapter, etc. And this will allow the GPU to turn on and give
a display on the monitor.
The fourth one is the SATA /
Molex cable, the SATA cable is used to power on storage devices like HDD, or
SSD SATA (not SSD NVMe as it is installed into the motherboard). The molex
cable is used to power on fans usually or sometime newer fans will use the fan
controller on the motherboard already so watch out for that.
Form Factor
There multiple form factors
of power supplies just like there are multiple form factors for motherboard,
GPUs, cases, and more. There are 4 different form factors for power supplies
which are ATX, TFX, SFX-L, and SFX.
The first one is the biggest
being the ATX. The ATX power supply at its dimensions being 150 x 86 x 140 mm
which is normal for the average build.
The second one is the TFX.
Now although it does look small it is pretty big. Its dimensions are 175 x 85 x
65. Now it is the same size for its width, except for its height and length. Its
length is around 25 mm longer and the height being over half of it. The TFX
power supply is basically the Flex ATX power supply but it is bigger than it in
all dimensions.
The third one is the SFX-L
power supply which is the 2nd smallest. Now it does have SFX in the
name but it has an L. The L signifies as “Large” as it is the SFX power supply
but bigger. The SFX-L dimensions are 125 x 125 x 63.5 mm. This is the average
power supply size for ITX builds except for the really small ITX builds.
Now onto the smallest one
being the SFX power supply. The SFX is the smallest power supply at only 125 x
100 x 63.5 mm. The SFX power supply is mainly used into really small ITX builds
where it really needs to save as much space as possible for it to be portable.
Fan and Cooling
Most power supplies have a
built-in fan inside of it for it to dissipate heat from it.
Some of the high efficiency
models of power supplies may operate fan less under low loads for a quieter.
But during when it starts having high loads the power supply may start
operating the fan faster and faster and it may get a little loader but the
higher models will be super quiet even at max load.
Modular vs non-Modular
This Modular or non-Modular
will usually be shown in the description of the power supply but basically what
this means is the cables of the power supply is detached or not. There are 3
types of this which I will get into now.
The first one which is the
most common one and cheapest is the non-Modular. What non-Modular means is that
the cables of the power supply will be connected to the power supply. So, the
cables are already inserted inside of the power supply and cannot be disconnected.
If you don’t know what I am talking about I will add an image below this so you
can understand.
The second one is
Semi-modular. What semi modular mean is kind off like non modular except that
some of the cables are disconnected and can be connected whenever they are
needed too. Semi-modulars are the second most common one but a bit more
expensive than the non-modular one. What this can do is basically make your PC
cable management more neat and cleaner so it looks more appetizing that a giant
mess that you just jam behind your PC behind case. I will also add an image
below so you can get an understanding of it.
The third one is the Fully
modular one. This one is the most expensive one as all of the cables of the
power supply are DETACHED. None of them are attached like the semi modular and
the non modular one. So, your cable management should be very clean and neat.
So, if you don’t need a certain cable, you can just remove it and keep it
inside of the box whenever you need to use it again. No surprise but this is
also the most expensive one because of its design. It is not too much than the
semi and non-modular ones. For me I think they are fairly price and they are
still fairly cheap if you can find the correct. I have a fully modular one as I
have a ITX pc so I need as little cables in the way. Here is a picture of a
fully modular power supply.
If you want to see an image
of all 3 of them side by side here it is:
When you are selecting a
power supply, it is crucial to consider about the power requirements of your
system components, also including future upgrades which I recommend, to fully
ensure that when you choose a unit that can be satisfied and efficiently supply
the necessary power to. I hope this helped you to pick a power supply for your
PC build, and remember the most important thing to do when making or buying
components is to READ the description of the
product first.
Cooling System
The cooling system role is
to keep the temperature of the hardware components down to idle temperature. As
an overheating CPU can result into a repeat crashing screen as well as an
overheating GPU. Anyways here is the 3 types of cooling:
Types of Cooling Systems
1. Air Cooling
Air cooling utilizes the fan
to circulate air through the heatsink which is attacked to components like the
CPU and GPU.
Pros: Usually for Air
cooling it is easier to install, less expensive, and requires lower maintenance
than a liquid cooling.
Cons: Not as efficient as
liquid cooling, and may take more space depending on which cooler you get for
the CPU, either it could be ATX or save space by using a SFX cooler.
2. Liquid Cooling
Liquid Cooling circulates a
coolant through a series of tubes, radiators, and blocks that are attacked to
the components. Liquid cooling can be custom modified on the GPU and may
require professionals to attach it, for CPU it’s a bit easier but harder.
Pros: Liquid cooling is more
efficient as cooling, quieter, and it could be more compact if you can do cable
management with it.
Cons: Liquid cooling is more
expensive, and potentially much more complex to install, and requires more
maintenance due to build up of dust.
3. Phase Change Cooling and
Peltier (TEC) Coolers
The Phase change cooling and
Peltier cooler are more exotic solutions that are used for extreme cooling
which are not commonly used in consumer PCs and to be honest I can’t find any
info on what they are used for, some say servers.
Pros: The Phase change and
Peltier and extremely efficiency cooling.
Cons: Although it is very
expensive, complicated to install, and typically very overkill for most users.
Now That I have talked about
the 3 different types of CPU coolers, let’s talk about the key components
inside of a CPU cooler which makes it work:
Key Components
Heatsinks
Heatsinks are a metal
structure with fins that increase the surface area on the CPU / GPU for a
better heat dissipation.
Fans
Fans are used for
circulating air outside of the CPU / GPU which cools it down. There are 3 types
of fans that are used for cooling down the PC. The first and second, I already
said which is the CPU and GPU, but the third one is the Case fans to cool down the
PC. The case fans are used to pull new cold air inside of the PC and to pull
the hot air outside of the PC but they can be loud.
Liquid Cooling
There are 3 components
inside of a liquid cooling.
The first one is the Pump of
the liquid cooling, which circulates the coolant in a liquid cooling set up.
The second one is the
radiator which helps dissipating heat from the liquid coolant back into the air
again which if they don’t, then the coolant will be too hot so it wont even be
cooling down the CPU / GPU but rather making it hotter.
Then the third one is the
Cooling blocks which is directly attached to the components, CPU / GPU to
facilitate heat transfer from the component to the liquid coolant.
Thermal Paste
Now this is probably the
most important part of the cooling part, and that is the thermal paste. The
thermal paste aids in the transfer of the heat between the components, and the
heatsink of cooling block.
Thermal paste improves the
quality and application and can significantly impact the cooling efficiency of
the CPU or GPU. But how does thermal paste actually improve the cooling?
When the heatsink touches
the CPU, if you look through a microscope it is not flat, so the interaction
between both won’t be as efficiency as not all of it is touching the CPU
cooler. So thermal paste will come in and flatten out the whole thing so all of
it is touching making the cooling more efficient. Making the areas which aren’t
flat able to be cooled down with thermal paste.
(My explanation isn’t that
good so its better off going to google and searching it up)
Other Factors
Now I am going to write
about the other factors of cooling.
Airflow
The airflow of the cooling
also matters, this one goes against the case as some cases have bad airflow
making the PC hotter. But if you buy a proper case design and fan placement
with good airflow, that can improve the overall airflow, which then will help
out with the cooling system temperature.
Noise levels
Noise levels can be annoying
and it comes from the cooling systems and fans. Some cooling systems are
quieter than other which can be a consideration for some users who need a quiet
PC. Although that comes with a price of a pretty good amount. Some fans can be
20 dollars PER FAN and that is MAD expensive.
Aesthetics
Although Aesthetics doesn’t
impact the temperature of the cooling system, it does look nice. Some cooling
solutions, especially certain liquid cooling set ups that include RGB, can look
very nice inside if your PC system.
Maintenance
Liquid cooling systems
generally requires more maintenance, such as the periodic coolant replacement.
When buying a cooling
solution, you should also pick the one that fits you, choosing the right
cooling solution can depend on various factors including your performance
needs, for example your budget for it, what aesthetics you want it to have to
make your PC look nicer, preferences, and willingness to perform the liquid
cooling maintenance, because if not then just get an air cooler instead of
liquid cooling. Always make sure to consider the heat output of your components
and the cooling capabilities of your chosen cooling solution to ensure maximum
performance from it.
Here are some of my
recommendations for CPU coolers, if you’re looking for the quietist with max
performance then Noctua is your best bet.
Noctua have high performance
and quiet operation. What type of model of Noctua is up to you, and the better
model they have comes with a higher price so much to watch for that.
Another one is the Cooler
Master, as in their name they are a master at cooling. They have a lot of good
cooling solutions, both liquid and air cooling which is up to you to find your
preference.
A third one which a lot of
people use today is be quiet! Be quiet coolers, as suggested very QUIET. They
have many options of cooling models and cooling solutions. Some be quiet air
cooling are MASSIVE. They also have liquid cooling if you want as well.
Anyways those are my top 3
solutions (while I am just using the CPU cooling that comes with the CPU
because I’m a cheap skate), there are some other brands which are cheaper and
that I also recommend like deep cool as they make amazing cheap coolers as the
ak400 being their best price to performance one.
PC Case:
The case houses and protects
the hardware components, and also where you put all of the components.
Casing can have many
different types, for example like, the size of the case as it can depend on how
big / what type your components are, the build quality of the case like it can
be made out of plastic or metal, the airflow of the casing which can affect
your performance by a lot due to temperature, and the aesthetics of the build
like RGB.
Facts about PC cases
Protection
The PC case can protect the internal
hardware inside from damage, also some PC cases have a dust protector / the
design of the case can help the clean up job of the dust inside of your PC, and
other environmental factors.
Cooling
Some PC cases have certain
areas for airflow and they often come with pre-installed fans or vents for
additional cooling options.
Cable Management
Behind most PC cases have a
behind part where you can put your cables and connect them to the components
like the motherboard, GPU, and more. But some PC cases have an actual cable
management part on the back of the case which can have certain routes for the
wires, clips to keep the wire together or ties, which can make it easier to
manage the wires, and possibly improve the airflow.
Types of Cases
1. Full tower
A Full tower build is the
biggest pc case that you can get and its usually a little more expensive than
the mid tower cases or same price. Usually, you can get these for a decent
price if you find the correct one. A full tower case are usually used for E-ATX
/ ATX motherboards which are big.
Pros: The full tower can
have a lot of space inside for multiple drives like storage or GPUs, it can
have additional cooling areas due its size, and it can handle high end
components, like you can have a massive GPU inside of your case unlike a case
which is pretty small, and that you have a lot of space behind the PC, which
makes cable management easier than ever.
Cons: The cons of a full
tower build are, of course it takes up a lot more room which can be a problem
if you have a small and limited desk that cannot have a giant PC on your side, a
full tower build is often heavier than a smaller build due to its size, and
more expensive due to the usual components inside a full tower build being
mainly high-end builds and also the case behind expensive as well.
2. Mid Tower
Now the Mid tower build is
what most people use nowadays because of how cheap the cases are, they are cheaper
than the E-ATX cases, and ITX cases, because it’s like in the middle ground. The
Mid tower case is usually made for ATX to MATX motherboards which again is
usually the cheapest motherboards to get making it a perfect combination to
use.
Pros: The pros for the mid
tower case is that it’s the most popular for general purpose builds which makes
it cheaper, and its usually enough space for most mid to high end parts which
makes it a perfect middle ground.
Cons: The cons of it is that
it may lack space for elaborate cooling systems like a big AIO or a lot of
fans, it may not be able to carry as much multiple storage devices like the
full tower case, and also that cable management may be a bit harder than the
ATX but with a enough work it’s doable with zip ties.
Mini-ITX / Micro-ATX
This one is about Micro and
ITX cases which both have massive differences. The Micro ATX cases are really
cheap and usually the cheapest cases to get, while ITX cases are much more
expensive due to the manufacturers having to make enough space and the design
for everything to fit.
Pros: The pros of the Mini
and Micro cases is that its more compact, more portable to bring it around, and
often designed with aesthetics like RGB in mind.
Cons: Limited room for
components so you may need to use ITX / mid end parts for the build, less
efficient cooling due to the limited space, and less scope for upgrades so no
high-end parts.
Important features to look
out for
1. Material
Material is a pretty important
thing to look out for as that can determine the quality of the case as the better
quality the better but more expensive. The common materials that manufacturers use
are usually Steel, aluminum, and tempered glass (for the transparent glass
panels for some cases).
The benefits can be very
good as it will be harder for the components inside of your PC to get damage
which is what you want, depending on which material you get can also determine
the weight of your PC making it heavier or less, and the cost of the PC, if you
find the correct one the price can be less while if you get a higher end
quality one then it can be more expensive.
2. Airflow
Airflow can have a pretty
big impact on the life expectancy and the performance of your computer. You
should get a case which have a mesh front, exhaust fans, and intake fans. What
this means is that there is actually an area where it can get air from which can
be relied on the design on the case. The intake fans job is to bring new cold
air inside the PC to cool it down, and exhaust fan to bring out the used hot
air from the PC.
The benefits can be that
your components will lower down in temperature allowing it to full throttle
without overheating, and it can also improve your components life expectancy as
your components won’t be overheating or be very hot all the time while your PC
is running.
3. Expansion Slots and Bays
Expansion Slots and Bays can
be 2.5 inch / 3.5-inch drive bays for either SSDs or HDDs, and PCIe slots,
which is from the motherboard. Depending on which kind of case you have can
determine the amount of slots of storage you have and the kind of motherboard
you have that can have multiple PCIe slots. Usually the bigger the case, the
more slots and the biggest motherboard you can have. While the smaller the
case, then you will have less space and less opportunity for more storage space
and the space the motherboard have.
The benefits is that more is
better.
4. Front I/O Ports
PC cases come with front I/O
ports, and some PC cases can have a lot and some not as much. Most I/O ports come
with USB 2.0’s or 3.0’s. Some expensive cases come with USB 3.1’s and Type C. They
also come with audio jacks, power, and reset buttons.
It can benefit you if your
wire is too short from the back, so you can use the I/O ports in the front from
the PC case instead of the motherboard, and also that it can be more compatible
with other peripherals.
5. RGB Lighting and
Aesthetics
A lot of people care about
Aesthetics a lot like RGB. Some people disagree but most agree it looks better.
Aesthetics and RGB have no affect against the PC performance but rather just
the visual of the PC. Cheap PC cases can come with RGB but its usually bad
quality so if you really want to look for a RGB case that is good quality, you
may want to bump your budget a bit as that can vary a lot in price.
6. Tool-less Design
Now this one doesn’t have to
apply to everyone as most people have a screwdriver so they can easily screw in
screws, but for people who want to be able to make their PC without tools then
you can use this. Tool-less design cases come with thumb screws that can be
screwed in with just your hands, and also a quick release mechanism that allows
you to disassemble without tools.
Benefits can be that you
don’t have to go through a messy clean up with your screws being everywhere and
if you can’t find your screwdriver. Although this benefit may be small but may
be major for others. Although for its price it may be a bit less convincing to
buy.
7. Dust Filters
Usually, most cases already
come with Dust filters, but if not, they are pretty cheap online. When dust
gets inside the PC, the dust filter will stop it by stopping it with its
filter, but it has holes so that air can still get inside.
Benefits: It’s usually an
easier to clean up the dust as you just have to clean the filter, and only a
few pieces of dust get inside of the PC.
(Helps minimize dust intake,
making you need to do cleaning less frequent.)
When choosing a case, its best
to consider the compatibility with your other components, like your motherboard
size, GPU size, your cooling needs, the space you have in your setup, and also
your aesthetic preferences.
Here is the internet opinion
for the best case to buy for each tower:
Full tower Recommendations
Corsair iCUE 7000X RGB (340$) – Is
the best overall PC case for Full tower although it’s pretty expensive at a
whopping 340$ which
is a lot of money. The Corsair iCUE 7000X RGB is popular due to its Smart RGB,
it’s color scheme, included 140mm RGB fans, easy Cable management, and more.
The case is so big that it can pretty much have any component you want, it can
even fit the biggest GPU, water cooling, and more.
Phanteks Enthoo 719 (215$) – Is
apparently the best value full tower case? Even though the price tag is at 215$.
The phantek full tower case has over 400 reviews on it which shows its
credibility. It does have some pretty cool looking RGB scheme, it has high
quality material, it can support two power supplies, it has a tempered glass
SSD window, it can support up to two 480 mm radiators, RGB supported apps, and
more. Again, it can support any kind of component you think of.
Mid tower Recommendations
NZXT
H9 FLOW (160$) – Is the best overall PC case for Mid tower,
with it insanely clean looking case, with 2 tempered glass panels around the
PC. The case comes with tons of airflow for best temperature that can support
up to 10 x 120 mm fans / 6 x 140mm fans + 1 x 120mm fan, it looks like it
already comes with 4 pre-installed fans. The case is pretty new, priced at 160$
on Amazon, and it already has over 100 great reviews from buyers on amazon.
This case supports up to ATX motherboard, and can support high end parts and
maybe some big parts, it MIGHT work with the biggest parts you can think off, I
am not sure as I’ve never had this because im broke.
Zalman
S2 (60$) – Is the best budget
PC for Mid tower priced at 60$, it has a fairly clean look to it, and comes
with a glass panel on the side. For 100$ less than the NZXT H9 FLOW, I see the
differences and for 100$ less I think it’s a pretty great deal. The Zalman S2
is compatible up to an ATX motherboard, it already comes with magnetic dust
filters that help catch the dust making it easy to clean, it comes with 3
pre-installed fans, and a full mesh front panel, which helps with airflow a
lot. If your building a PC with this case, ALWAYS DO YOUR RESRACH ON
COMPATIBILITY, some parts may not fit due to its size, it can be the
motherboard, GPU, CPU cooler, and more. So, make sure to do your research.
NZXT H510 – This case is recommended
by AI, its priced at 100$ on amazon which is pretty decent for its looks. The
case looks really good in certain colors but it may cost more money than the
black version, it is the best seller of computer cases, and best deals, so this
case is really popular amongst the community of PC builders. The H510 can
support up to ATX motherboard, and it says its water cooling ready.
Pros:
The NZXT H510 is a compact ATX mid tower case with tempered glass on the side
so you can always see your beautiful components, the case also uses steel
construction as the PC case material which is a really high-end material for
its price.
The
NZXT H510 in the front I/O USB, has a Type C Port which are pretty unseen in
the PC case front ports, and the case also comes with a one screw installation
for the glass side panel.
It
also comes with 2 fans that are pre-installed for optimal internal airflow, and
the front panel and power supply intakes include removable dust filters,
removable bracket which are designed for radiators which can support up to
240mm size.
The case can support,
Mini-ITX, Micro-ATX, and ATX motherboards, with easy cable management behind
the case, and with a clean and sleek design and not messy at all due to its
design and certain areas to hide the cables.
If you are looking for RGB
and you want a lot of aesthetics then I would probably recommend you the NZXT H510 Elite,
which is pretty much the same design but with cool RGB fans and with a glass
panel in front so the RGB can be seen, which is really cool. But the problem is
that it’s about 50 dollars more than the regular which is a 50% increase, and I
think it’s not worth it for just as big RGB and an extra glass panel for it’s
looks, as the regular H510 is already good price and good looking.
Micro-ATX Cases
Corsair CC 280X RGB
– In my opinion this one looks the best; you can find it on amazon for
115 pounds but you can probably find it cheaper in America amazon. This kind of
has a Lian-li vibe to it but it just doesn’t have the 2-window glass panel on
the sides. It has 2 glass panel on its left side AND above, with 2 120mm fans
in the front which are of course, already included inside the build so you
don’t have to struggle putting them in or buying them. The Corsair CC 280X RGB
supports a motherboard up to a Micro ATX, and also the power supply actually
goes in the back of the case which can give you an insane amount of area for
you to do your cable management. The case can hold up 6 120mm fans, with
stunning RGB lighting which can be controlled with the Corsair iCUE Software, with
a 2-section part of the PC, the main components and aesthetics in the front,
and the power supply, SSD’s, with neat cable management in the back. I think
this case is pretty cool but it may be pretty big for your liking, especially you
wanting a Micro ATX case.
Cooler
Master MasterBox Q300L
– is probably the best value Micro ATX case due to its price. Online you
can buy it for 55 pounds, which is relatively cheap for a PC case, and you also
get tons of good features that comes with it.
Pros:
The Q300L comes with magnetic dust filters which are pre-installed on the top,
front, and bottom, which makes cleaning the dust much easier.
The
Q300L also comes with the flexibility to position the case either vertically or
horizontally. The I/O panel can be adjusted to six different locations, three
options each orientation.
The
case has a modular design that allows you to remove or relocate panels to
accommodate various components and cooling setups.
The
Q300L also has good airflow with the perforated exterior supports good airflow,
although it’s worth noting that the case comes may come with only one
pre-installed fan or none. So, make sure to buy more fans for a better cooling
experience so you may see an increase in performance.
The case provides options
for a decent cable management, although it might not be as extensive as more of
the bigger and more expensive cases.
The case only costing 55
pounds, this case is an amazing deal. You get all of these good features except
there are some cons as well.
Cons:
The Q300L may only have limited space for certain large components, the case
only supports up to a Micro ATX motherboards due to its size being pretty small
compared to other cases. Due to its size, it may not support additional cooling
or large GPUs, so your pretty limited to what you can put in the case.
The
build quality of the case is not as premium as the more expensive and high end
cases, which reflects its budget nature.
The cooling only comes with
one pre-installed fan or none, so you’ll likely need to buy more fans for the
case.
Mini ITX Cases
Lian-Li
Q58
– is the best overall mini-ITX case which is currently 146$ on US
amazon. The case looks pretty clean and nice. The Lian Li Q58 is a white color
PC and it comes with a PCIe 4.0 Riser which are pretty expensive so that makes
the price kind of reasonable. Again, the max motherboard support that the case
supports is a mini ITX, but the GPU size can be up to 320mm which A LOT more
space than the usual mini ITX case.
Pros:
The Lian-Li Q58 looks very nice with a glass panel for the top of the side,
while a really good airflow below it. Probably for the GPU. It also comes with
a PCIe 4.0 Riser so your GPU is definitely not going to get bottlenecked by
that PCIe 3.0 riser, the case also comes with 2 different colors, which is
black and white so you have 2 options which you can pick what you want.
The
case also comes with a 320mm max GPU length which is very big for a mini ITX
case, because usually for mini ITX cases you have to go and get a ITX GPU
instead of a full-size GPU. The Lian-Li Q58 can probably support up to a 3 fan
GPU that isn’t 320mm.
In the front I/O port also
comes with a Type C port and probably a USB 3.0 or 2.0 as well below it. The
power button is also just above the, for what I think is a port for your
headphone or microphone.
The case is also made out of
Aluminum so then you don’t have to worry about a bad material for the case, so
damaging it is harder than a bad quality case.
Cooler
Master NR200P – is
probably the best mini-ITX case for beginners who want a small ITX case which
looks very nice. You can probably find this case for around 100$. The NR200P
comes with a glass panel on the side, but if you want a cheaper one which
doesn’t have a glass panel, it is called the NR200 instead of the NR200P. The
case can hold up a motherboard up to Mini-ITX. The case is probably recommended
to use air cooling instead of an AIO due to its limited space.
Pros:
The NR200P has many different colors, you can get it in blue, white, black,
Sakura, and more. Which is really cool because tons of cases don’t have these
types of options, the price is also pretty good as I just said, 100$.
The
case can hold up a GPU up to 330mm in length and a max width of 156mm. Which
compared to the Lian-Li Q58 it is only 320mm in length. And if you find the
correct deal then it may come with a PCIe riser but if you find a cheap on then
it probably doesn’t include, due to the riser costing like 20 dollars or the
cooler master official one costing like 40 dollars. Then you can put your GPU
sideways so then you can look at your big GPU on the glass and the it comes
with a vertical mount option.
The
NR200P can support up to 7 fans with 5 sides of open ventilation so then air
can come out and come in for the best airflow. You can also fit a CPU cooler up
to 155mm tall but it is not recommended. The airflow in the NR200P is very good
with fans not just on the sides but with fans on the bottom and top as well.
The NR200P CAN support up to
a 280mm long AIO radiator but it is not recommended. If you do put it inside
the case then you will probably have barely any space for other stuff. Also,
the NR200P supports SFX power supplies, so keep that in mind, some other ITX
cases may support an ATX power supply but the case may be bigger than a ITX
case like this. So, make sure to do your research.
NZXT H210i – AI
choice / can be found for around 100 dollars and it look fairly clean. The
h210i can support up to an ITX motherboard as it says in its name. Here are the
features of the h210i that can justify its price a bit more:
Key features
1. The
H210i comes with integrated RGB lighting and fan control. The integrated smart
device v2, offers RGB lighting and fan control through the NZXT’s cam software
so you can control it to whatever your likings are.
2. The
H210i has a full tempered glass side panel, which allows you to show off your
build and any RGB lighting or any aesthetics inside of the PC that you may
have.
3. The
cable management is very simple, as the case already includes a cable routing
kit with pre-installed channels and straps that can make wiring behind the case
easy and neat.
4. The
H210i also comes with a USB 3.1 gen 2 USB-C connector on its front panel area,
which makes it easier to connect to newer devices that may use TYPE C instead
of the usual USB 3.0.
5. It
also has a very compact design, as it is a Mini-ITX case, its more compact than
a mid or full tower case. It is ideal for those who have a limited amount space
but they still want a high-quality build.
6. Even though the case
compact, it is still designed for the components and fans to have a reasonably
good airflow, with a radiator support up to 240mm for liquid cooling.
Those are the features that
the H210i comes with and they seem good for 100 dollars. Now I will be going
over the pros and cons of the case itself so then you can get the rough idea of
the case.
Pros: Like many of NZXT
cases, the H210i is no different.
1. It
is sleek and attractive, particularly with its RGB integration.
2. The
build quality of the case is also high quality, which features steel and
tempered glass primarily.
3. Despite the H210i small size,
it is coming with several features that are typically found in larger, and more
expensive cases like the integrated lighting and cable management.
Cons: Although the H210i may
have tons of pros, it also does have it downsides.
1. The
H210i has good airflow but compared to bigger cases, the airflow can be
limited, the compact nature and design of the case means that the airflow isn’t
as efficient as larger or mesh fronted cases.
2. The
H210i is also on the higher end of pricing for a Mini-ITX case, but that can be
sort of justified as the case comes with a high-quality material with also
features that are found in bigger cases.
3. And the main thing is the
limited amount of space that you have inside of the build, as not everything
will fit inside of the case so you have to do your research on it. You should
look out for your GPU length, PSU size, and your cooling options as it only
supports up to a 240mm AIO.
The H210i is a well suited
for those who are looking to build a compact yet a decently powerful system and
willing to invest as bit for more aesthetics and build quality. But due to the
size, you have to be prepared to spent some extra time planning out your build,
especially if you intend to include some high-end components that generate more
heat, and usually are bigger.
Silverstone
SG13 – is my personal
choice for the cheapest case to buy for ITX. Depending on where you live in the
world can really vary on the price of the case. Usually, it sells for 50
dollars which is the cheapest ITX case that you can probably get. In my area it
sells for 35 dollars, but I was able to buy one used for 25 dollars. The
Silverstone SG13 has been popular for those who need to find an extremely
compact form factor, and budget friendly price. Although the SG13 is really
small, it is surprisingly versatile, allowing a variety of hardware
configurations. Here is a list of its key features, pros, and cons.
Key Features
1.
The SG13 is one of the most compact Mini-ITX cases available, it’s amazing for
space limited setups. So, it doesn’t take too much space in your set up so then
you can put other stuff instead of just your massive PC.
2. The
SG13 has 2 different front panel designs. Depending on which version you
choose, you can either opt for a mesh front panel for better airflow, or a
solid panel for a cleaner look.
3.
The SG13 also has a bigger power supply compatibility. It can support power
supplies up to an ATX size, which is quite crazy given its size.
4.
The cooling options the case has is pretty good. The case has room for a 120mm
or a 140mm fan in the front and also supports a 120mm radiator, allowing for
basic water-cooling setups.
5.
It also has room for a 3.5 hard drive or two 2.5 SSDs. In addition to the M.2
storage that you can mount on the motherboard.
6. Despite the case compact
size, the case can actually support a GPU that is decently big. It can support
a graphics card up to 10.5 inches 265mm.
The SG13 has a lot of
features to it, and now I will be rounding it up in pros and cons.
Pros and Cons
Pros: The SG13 is one of the
most budget friendly Mini ITX cases that you can probably get for only like 50
dollars. It’s also pretty versatile in terms of the components that are
compatible for its size. On top of that, its small compact case allows it to be
very portable, suitable for LAN parties or as a travel PC.
Cons: Although the case may
be very small, it does have its down sides, the SG13 small size restricts
airflow, but it’s still pretty good. You just have to buy a good cooling
solution. The cable management is also a struggle as for me the case is
impossible for cable management due to my power supply cables being very hard. It
also lacks some of the premium features that some more expensive ones would
have. For example, like, built in RGB lighting, or a tempered glass panel on
the side.
The SG13 has its pros and
cons, but at the end of the day. It’s perfect for those who are looking to
build a portable, space saving PC without having to break their budget. There
are some stuffs that you have to consider, like component sizes, and cooling
solutions so make sure to keep an eye for those stuff. If you’re new to
building PC’s, then this might be a challenge for you to build inside of it,
but for those who are willing to work with the SG13 limitations, then it offers
an excellent value for trying to go cheap. Like me, my PC only costed me 500
dollars, as if I would have gone more premium, probably 750 dollars.
Peripherals:
The Input / Output
peripherals are hardware devices that provide a way for the information from
the peripherals to be exchanged between a computer and the outside world. These
peripherals allow many users to interact with computer system, facilitating
both input and output operations.
Input Peripherals
Input peripherals are
different between the output ones. Input are the ones that allows the users to
input stuff into the computer, while output is what the computer sends a signal
/ output into, like the monitor.
Keyboard
The keyboard is one of the
most essential input peripherals for a computer that’s used for typing,
navigating the operating system, and executing various commands. Here’s a
detailed look about the key components of a keyboard and things to look out for
if you’re going to buy a keyboard to use.
Key Components
1. Keycaps: are
the top part of the keys that display the letter, number, or symbol. Usually,
the mechanical keyboards are removable so then they can be switched for another
different type of keycaps that the keyboard company may offer.
2. Switches: are
the underlying mechanism that registers a keypress. There are several different
types of switches that you can have.
Mechanical: Provides tactile feedback and often produces
a clicky sound.
Membrane: Quieter and less tactile.
Optomechanical: Use light for actuation, combining speed with
the tactile feel of the mechanical switches.
3. Stabilizers: are
used in larger keys, for example; like the spacebar and enter to ensure even
keypresses. If they keys aren’t even, then that may result to a bad experience
using the keyboard.
4. Backlight:
provides an illumination, which can usually be customizable with RGB lighting.
5. PCB (Printed Circuit
Board): The electronic board that registers the keypresses and
sends the data to the computer.
6. Frame / Body: Is
the main structure of the keyboard, which is often made of plastic or if you
get the heavy keyboards, which are made for a sturdy, non slippery bottom, it
may be made out of metal.
Types of keyboards
Just like most of
everything, there are different types of keyboards. Full sized, TKL, 60% etc.
I’ll be going over 5 of them in detailed so you can fully know about it, or at
least get an idea for it. Starting with the Full-size Keyboards:
1. Full-Sized Keyboards
The full-sized keyboard,
includes a full set of keys (which in total is 104 keys or 108 keys if you also
include some extra media function keys) that includes the alphabet, numbers,
function keys, and a dedicated number pad. It often has multimedia keys and
sometimes programmable macro keys.
Pros: The keyboard provides a
wide range of tasks from typing to data entry, win a versatile and suitable environment.
It also offers more features like a dedicated volume control, or extra media
function keys.
Cons: Full-size keyboards
usually take up more desk space than lets say a 60% keyboard layout, and also
with its size, its not as portable.
Its mainly ideal for
professional work, data entry, and users who prefer having access to all
possible keys without needing to use secondary functions.
2. Tenkeyless (TKL)
Keyboards
The TKL keyboard comes with
87 / 88 keys which is roughly 80% of the number of keys of the full-sized one
so you can either call this a TKL or 80% keyboard. The TKL does lack the
dedicated number pad, but you still have the function keys and other standard keys.
Pros: The TKL keyboard does
have a more compact size, which can free up desk space for other stuff, which
also makes it easier to transport unlike the full-sized model keyboards.
Cons: The missing number pad
on TKL keyboards may be inconvenient for some users, especially in the data
entry tasks but rather than that, there isn’t much other cons I can think of.
Saying that you still have everything you need in a keyboard for it to be used
on a daily basis.
TKL keyboards are mainly
ideal for general users and gamers who want more mouse space, and don’t require
a number pad for their daily tasks.
3. 60% Keyboards
The 60% keyboard, of course
only takes up 60% unlike the TKL which uses 80% and the full-sized being 100%. A
60% keyboard should have 62 keys which is starting to get a lot more limited. The
60% Keyboard has the number pad and function row and even “sometimes” the arrow
keys removed to get its really compact keyboard. Usually, to reverse the
removed stuff, the keys often have a multiple function, so then 1 key can
possibly have 2 different functions if you press a certain key with it.
Pros: With the 60% keyboard
having only 62 keys, it easily makes it so much more compact and portable, and
encourages a minimalistic setup.
Cons: The 60% keyboard lacks
the direct access to function keys and sometimes the arrows keys, requiring the
use of key combinations for these functions.
Its usually ideal for users
who are looking for an extremely portable keyboard and those who are
comfortable with a minimalistic setup.
4. Gaming Keyboards
Gaming keyboards can
basically come in any size like 60%, TKL, or full-sized, but they often include
some extra features like programmable macro keys, customizable RGB lighting,
and faster actuation switches. So, pretty much the options are limitless for
this.
Pros: Most gaming keyboards
are designed for responsiveness and key re-mapping, which is crucial for
gaming. And the more expensive gaming keyboards are often more durable to withstand
intense gaming sessions, which the gamer may rage.
Cons: With all these pros,
there has the be cons, and that is the cost. Many gaming keyboards are really
good and high quality, but they come with a more expensive price tag with it.
Now the RGB can either be a
Pro or Con, as it can depend on the person whose buying it. RGB can be a pro to
people who are looking for a cool aesthetic keyboard. But also, that RGB can be
a con as that doesn’t affect the gaming experience.
Gaming keyboards are (of
course) ideal for those gamers who want a really responsive and customizable
gaming keyboard for a better experience and depending on their preferences, a
better look for their gaming setup.
5. Ergonomic Keyboards
Ergonomic keyboards are
designed to minimize strain, featuring split designs, negative tilts, or curved
layouts for the maximum comfort.
Pros: Ergonomic keyboards
help you to reduce the wrist and finger over an extended period amount of time.
It also may improve your typing speed and accuracy over time.
Cons: It may take some time to
get used to the different layout. Of course, it may cost more expensive than
the standard designs due to the custom and maximum comfort for your benefit.
The Ergonomic keyboards are
ideal for users who type for an extended period of time and are concerned about
ergonomics and wrist health
Hope that clears things up
about the different types of keyboards. Each keyboard has different specific
users needs, so choosing the right one involves considering your primary
activities, desk space, and any specific features that you may prefer.
So makes sure to figure out
your preferences, so you know what keyboard is best for you. Either if it’s a
mechanical keyboard for the satisfaction, or an ergonomic keyboard to reduce
strain during use, the choice is yours. You also have to consider your primary
use case, like gaming, typing, professional work, and more. You should also
watch out for the amount of space you have, and your budget.
Mouse
A mouse is another crucial
peripheral that allows users to interact with a computer’s graphical interface.
I’ll be writing down different types of mouses, their components, and their pro
and cons.
Components of a Mouse
1. A mouse has 2 buttons. It
has a left button, and a right button. They are used for selecting, dragging,
and other different functions.
2. There is also a scroll
wheel that enables vertical scrolling on pages and also sometimes acts as a
third button.
3. DPI button can depend on
which mouse you are getting, but most gaming mouses have one. Their use is so
that you can change the mouse sensitivity with just a click of a button. It is
useful in gaming or precision tasks which you need to lower down or raise the
mouse sensitivity.
4. The Optical Sensor is the
device which is below the mouse, which tracks the mouse movement, which can
make precise changes on the screen.
5. LEDs or RGB lighting is
also another thing that most gaming mouses have, unless you have a non RGB one.
It is mostly for aesthetics that can be customized for different colors,
patterns, and more. And no, it doesn’t improve your gaming.
Types of Mouses
1. Wired Mouse
Wire mouses uses a wire (of
course) to connect to the computer through a USB cable. It can be 2.0, 3.0, or 3.1.
It doesn’t really matter. But today generation some wired mouses now use USB C
instead of regular USB 3.0. The good side of Wired mouses are that you don’t
need to download any additional drivers (which in my opinion is unneeded, as
most mouses don’t even need a driver). So, it’s just plug and play.
Pros: Using a wired mouse
can be very beneficial for gaming as there is no latency, which makes them
highly responsive to every move you do. Another one is that you don’t need any
batteries for the mouse, unlike the non wired ones.
Cons: The problem with wired
mouses is that, the wire could have limited range due to the length of the
cable, but most are long enough for that you don’t really need to worry about
this. And also, that the cables that comes with the mouse can cause a messy on
your work space, which means you have to do more cable management.
Wired mouses are mainly
ideal for people who are gaming, where the low latency part comes into play,
and is very crucial, and any settings where you don’t mind a tethered
connection. Also, people who can make the mouse wire not messy and is willing
to either live with the messy cable or do more cable management because of it.
2. Wireless Mouse
Wireless mouses connects
through a USB receiver / dongle that you plug into the computer. It uses the
internet to connect to the wireless mouse. Wireless mouses also often comes
with a customizable DPI setting that you can change through either software, or
the mouse just comes with the regular DPI changes. With wireless mouses there
are some downsides that I will writing about soon, but for now I’ll be writing
about the pros.
Pros: Wireless mouses are
more flexible, and have more freedom of moving around. As there is no cable
holding on the mouse, which can make moving around a bit harder. It also
reduces that desktop wire mess by eliminating the cable. So you don’t have to
go through the hassle of cable managing the mouse cable like the wired mouse.
Cons: Wireless mouses also
does have its downsides too. It has some potential of slight latency, so your
mouse may not react as fast as if it was a wired mouse. Wireless mouses also
requires batteries or charging. So, you have to charge it every few hours or
every day. Another thing to watch out is that, usually when a wireless mouse
has lower battery, it will show some signs and latency issues that it is
running out of battery. Unless you have an expensive one which tells you, and
it doesn’t lose its performance when the battery level goes down.
Wireless mouses are ideal
for people who do office work and general computing needs where the convenience
of a wireless mouse has a benefit to the person using it. But if you’re a gamer
then getting a wireless mouse can be questionable for you.
3. Bluetooth Mouse
Bluetooth mouses are another
step up above wireless mouses. Bluetooth mouses doesn’t connect through a
dongle, but rather a Bluetooth connection. So now you can fully connect to it
wirelessly without needing to use a dongle. Another thing is that, Bluetooth
mouses can often connect to multiple devices, or connect to different devices
without needing to go through the hassle or taking out the dongle, or switching
out the cable.
Pros: The Bluetooth mouse
also frees up a USB port which can be used for something, if you are a person
who uses a lot of USB stuff, this can be beneficial for you. Another reason is
that, Bluetooth mouses are easier to switch between devices, like what I just
said earlier, you don’t have to go through the hassle or switching the dongle
or cable.
Cons: Bluetooth mouses has
again, some potential for latency like the wireless mouse, but also
interference as well. It might also consume more battery life than a regular
wireless mouse, so you might be recharging that mouse more often than you would
have to your previous wireless mouse, or just get a wired mouse if you’re
getting really annoyed about it. (Like what I have should have done in the
first place when I bought a mouse)
Users who have multiple
devices that need to move the mouse to different devices, or for people who
need to free up USB port, then a Bluetooth mouse can be ideal for you. But most
people who has a wireless mouse, usually use it because its just more efficient
and also that most Bluetooth mouses are expensive so they have a higher battery
life span. So, make sure to get a good price one (if you have the budget for
one) for a good experience and no needing to charge a mouse over and over again
repeatedly.
4. Gaming Mouse
A gaming mouse is what most
people have nowadays as they probably or they do play games and need a mouse
that is responsive and has the perfect sensitivity. Most gaming mouses or
pretty much all, have a high DPI for precise control, and also the DPI option
button, which can change the mouse sensitivity, which can be really useful. It
also may come with extra programmable buttons which can be used as shortcuts to
save some time. And of course, customizable RGB lighting because it’s a gaming
mouse, so it must have RGB for aesthetics.
Pros: Gaming mouses are designed
for quick, and precise movements. The extra buttons that the mouse includes
could be a game changer for you. And also, that, gaming mouses are usually made
for the lowest latency time for the best gaming experience. So, if you want the
lowest latency mouse, get a wired gaming mouse. Another one can be the
sturdiness of the mouse. Usually mouses are built with good material to
withstand the gamers rage or intense gaming, so if you do need that, then I
would suggest you get a more expensive one for higher material.
Cons: Gaming mouses are
usually more expensive, or cheaper but lower quality product. It also may come
with additional features that might be overkill for non-gaming use, so if you
don’t need additional features, maybe find a different model of a gaming mouse,
as there are thousands of different types of gaming mouses.
Gaming mouses are ideal for
gamers and those involved in tasks that require a quick and precise movements. So,
make sure to get a good price one, to get the best quality and best results for
your gaming and your tasks.
5. Ergonomic Mouse
Ergonomic mouses are
designed to reduce the wrist strain with multiple specific shapes and angles.
So, you can find one that fits your hand and comfort. Some Ergonomic mouse
models also have a trackball with it. I’m not really sure what a track ball on
a mouse is, but my theory is that, instead of using a laser to render the
movements, it uses the ball instead.
Pros: Ergonomic are more
comfortable for using it for a long time. While if you used a regular mouse, it
could potential be less comfortable and may start to hurt. It also may reduce
the risk of carpal tunnel and other strain-related injuries. Which, having
carpal tunnel, and other strain related injuries, can potentially ruin your
hand permanently.
Cons: Ergonomic mouses are
often bulkier and can take up more space as its unique designs for the most
comfort. The shape of the mouse can also be weird at first, so you have to use
it for a while and start getting used to it.
The Ergonomic mouse is a bit
more expensive, with some weird shapes, but with its benefits, I say that it’s
worth it. Ergonomic mouses are ideal for people who work long hours at a
computer and are concerned about their health, so they buy an ergonomic mouse.
Or also that if you just want to have a more comfortable gaming experience or
working. The time it takes to get used to an ergonomic mouse is worth it too.
6. Trackball Mouse
A trackball mouse features a
rolling ball to control the cursor instead of moving the whole mouse. Which
sounds very weird and pointless, but it can be useful to certain people. It
also usually has the standard left and right click buttons. I’m not sure what
it means by usually, but I’ll do some research.
The trackball mouses uses a
ball to move the cursor WITHOUT moving it. You use your fingers to move it
around. And what it means by usually, some trackball mouses uses big left and
right click buttons. Very far away from the sides, so what it means by standard
left and right click buttons, it means the usual and not the giant left and
right click ones.
Pros: The trackball mouses
requires less desk space as you only have to use your fingers, and not move the
mouse at all. It can also be more ergonomic than a traditional mouse. So, you
will feel more comfortable using this, but the design of it looks very weird,
so it may take some time for it to get used to.
Cons: The trackball mouse
can be less precise than the other mouses. It also has a steeper learning curve
for it be used effectively. So, it might take much longer than a standard
ergonomic mouse. For me, it doesn’t look that comfortable, and not worth it.
Better off buying an ergonomic mouse or another mouse rather than this one, as
the price of it is a bit more expensive for a good brand one, like Logitech.
Trackball mouses are ideal
for people who have a very limited amount of desk space or those who find a
traditional mouse uncomfortable. But then again, like I said before, I
recommend an Ergonomic mouse instead of this, as its sometimes cheaper than
this thing, and easier to get used to.
7. Vertical Mouse
Vertical mouses are designed
to be held in a like of “handshake” position. It also includes the usual
buttons and a scroll wheel like a usual mouse, except its oriented differently.
A vertical mouse is kind of like an ergonomic mouse instead that its not
weirdly shaped but rather just vertical. Its design to reduce the pain from
your hand and for it to be more comfortable than a regular mouse.
Pros: It allows for a more
natural hand and wrist position, which can make it more comfortable for you
when using it. It also reduces the strain over an extended use. A vertical
mouse is basically like an ergonomic mouse, it holds the mouse pros and
features of it, but with a different shape.
Cons: The vertical mouse
helps to reduce the strain over extended use, but it also takes some time for a
person to adapt to it, it is generally not suitable for precision tasks like
gaming, due to its shape, and its vertical mouse.
Vertical mouses are ideal
for users who experience wrist and forearm discomfort from using a traditional
mouse, so you can buy a vertical mouse which can make it more comfortable. But
again, everything is up to preferences. You may feel discomfort with a regular
mouse, but switching to a vertical or ergonomic mouse, may feel worse, or for
some people better. Everything takes time to get used to, so don’t be mad when
it doesn’t feel good when during your first time using it.
Each of these mouses gives a
specific need for certain people preferences, so your choice will largely
depend on your primary activities, needs, and ergonomic considerations. So,
make sure to do your research and your needs. Another thing to look out for is
what you do in a daily basis. It can be working, gaming, specific tasks, and
more.
Considerations
1.. DPI (Dots per Inch): A
higher DPI allows the user to expensive a more sensitive and rapid cursor
movement, which can be very useful in tasks like gaming or graphic design.
2. Polling Rate:
Polling rate are measured in Hz, which determines how often the mouse reports
its position to the computer. The higher polling rate can result into a more
smoother cursor movement, which is really useful if you really need that extra
speed and extra smoothness.
3. Size and Shape:
These could match your hand size and grip style, examples can be, palm, claw,
or fingertip grip for the most comfortable experience.
4. Button Configuration:
Some mouses come with some extra buttons that can be programmed into doing
specific tasks or shortcuts, which can be especially useful in gaming, or
productivity software. Also, shortcuts can be very useful if your tired of
typing and searching for the same thing so you can just instantly do a shortcut
to it.
5. Surface Compatibility:
Optical mouses work the best on mousepads or non-reflective surfaces, while a
laser mouse can work on a variety of surfaces, which also includes glass, or
any other material which can’t work with a regular mouse.
The mouse is more than just
a pointing device, it’s an extension that can be used with your hands when
interacted with a computer. Selecting the right one can make a significant
difference in certain tasks while using it. Whether it be for gaming, design
work, or just your general use. It can benefit it all. So, make sure to find
your preferences and test it, to see if it’s the right one for you.
Touchpads
A touchpad is also known as
a trackpad, which is a pointing device that is commonly found on laptops and
some desktop keyboards. It provides an alternative to a traditional mouse for
navigating a computer’s GUI (Graphical User Interface).
Components and Features
1. Surface Area: The
Surface area is sensitive to finger movement. Which enables the cursor
navigation
2. Multi Touch:
Like many modern touchpads, they support multi finger gestures for various
types of functions, like scrolling, zooming, or rotating.
3. Physical or Capacitive
Buttons: Physical or Capacitive buttons are often located at the
button or integrated into the pad for left and right clicks, and sometime also
the middle scroll clicks.
4. Haptic Feedback: Some
of the high-end touchpads offer tactile feedback to simulate clicks.
5. Adjustable Sensitivity: The
adjustable sensitivity allows the users to change the speed and responsiveness
of the cursor, which can allow the user to do stuff faster.
Pros and Cons
Pros: On laptops, it can
save a lot of space as the touchpad is already integrated onto the laptop or
some keyboards already have integrated touchpads as well. Touchpads also come
with a mouse by clicking on the touchpad. So, you may not need a mouse but its
mainly recommended to have a mouse. Touchpads also support multi touch gestures
which can offer enhanced functionality.
Cons: Its generally less
precise than a traditional mouse, especially for tasks like gaming or graphic
design. So, it’s better to buy a mouse rather than just using the one that
comes with the touchpad. It can also be less ergonomic for extended use, which
can potentially lead to finger or wrist strain.
Touchpads are mainly for
casual browsing and tasks that won’t require a high precision. Situations where
portability and space saving are needed, like working in small spaces, or while
you’re travelling.
Types of Touchpads
1. Mechanical Touchpads
Mechanical touchpads are
regular touchpad but with physical buttons for left and right clicks, which
also sometimes it may include a middle button for scrolling or other functions
that you may be able to use for shortcuts which can be helpful.
Pros: Mechanical touchpads
has tactile feedback from its physical buttons, so it may give a better feeling
to it. It’s also easier to distinguish between left and right clicks with a
mechanical touchpad.
Cons: Although it may wear
out faster due to the mechanical parts, which can be a bad thing over long time
as usually you want something that can be used for a long time. And it’s also
usually bulkier than the other types of touchpads. So, there are some bad cons
and some good pros, for me I think it’s not worth it due to the cons.
Mechanical touchpads are
ideal for people who prefer a tactile sensation of a click and also want a more
traditional touchpad experience rather than maybe one from another type.
2. Capacitive Touchpads
Capacitive touchpads rely on
the electrical properties of the human body for it to detect your touch. It
also has no physical buttons, and is simulates the clicks by you tapping on its
surface. So, it’s not like the mechanical keyboard where it already has the
left and right clicks (sometimes middle one too), and that’s pretty big
downside as sometimes it can malfunction, so that’s not a good start already.
Pros: This type of touchpad
has a sleek and minimalist design to it, which can make it easily transportable
and it can make it easier if you’re working in a tight space, or when you’re
travelling. It also allows for multi touch gestures, which can be used for many
different features, like scroll, zoom, and more.
Cons: The lack of tactile
feedback might not be ideal for all users, so you may want to get something
else if you really need that tactile feedback like the mechanical touchpad, and
it can sometimes register accidental taps that you may have not done on
purpose, which can lead to mess ups.
This touchpad is for users
who are looking for a more modern, smooth surface, that supports multi touch
gestures, so if you are one of them, then this one might be the one for you.
3. Force Touch or 3D Touch
A force touch or 3d touchpad
can detect varying the levels of pressure, and they are commonly found in some
of apple products. Apple has a product which is a trackpad and it can be used
like a regular trackpad but lets you force click by pressing on the trackpad
and applying more pressure. This allows the user to take advantage of added
functionality in many apps and system features on Mac. If you want more
information about it you can search about it online.
Pros: Force touch or 3D
touchpads enables additional functionalities depending on the pressure that is
applied to it, which can be useful in certain applications that support it, and
it can make a more interactive user experience. And using a software that
supports your trackpad, you can also change the sensitivity of the trackpad, so
if its too sensitive, then you can make it slower, or faster if you like.
Cons: The problem is that,
there are limited software support for the pressure sensitive actions that
provide the additional functionalities. I think that there are some apple
software that provide the additional functionalities but its pretty limited. It
also takes time to get used to the different pressure levels.
These types of trackpads are
ideal for users who require nuanced control and want to take advantage of the
pressure sensitive features in certain applications. Make sure to check if your
application that you want to use it on, even supports it, because the options
are pretty limited.
4. Optical Sensing Touchpads
Optical sensing touchpads
uses image sensors to be able to determine your finger movements, most of these
touchpads are usually has a higher sensitivity than other touchpads and
accuracy as well. Although it is pretty uncommon to find these so it may be a
bit harder to find it.
Pros: These have highly
precise tracking which is needed to have the best experience while using it,
and if you are trying to get the best experience using them, then using gloves
or other barriers may work better with it.
Cons: Optical sensing
touchpads aren’t commonly found in most mainstream devices nowadays so saying
that it has lower demand, that also means that it could be more expensive. So,
if you have the money and looking for a touchpad like this, then I think it
would be good.
These touchpads are ideal
for people who specialized applications where the high sensitivity and
precision are required.
5. Infrared Touchpads
Infrared touchpads use infrared
sensors so it can detect your finger movements, which is really cool, and it’s
usually used in industrial or specialized settings. So, if you have certain
uses for it and you need this for it, then this could be for you.
Pros: Infrared touchpads can
be used in various different environmental conditions, including wet or dirty
areas. Which saying it can be used in vary types of conditions, it needs to be
durable, and luckily infrared touchpads are highly durable so then it won’t get
destroyed too easily.
Cons: These aren’t commonly
used in consumer devices so the options be limited a bit and it also may lack
the support for advanced features like multi-touch which can be useful in
certain circumstances.
It’s ideal for people who
are in specialized and industrial work where durability and adaptability to
harsh conditions are critical for working.
Each of these types of
touchpads offers users new and unique advantages and disadvantages which make
them suitable for different users needs and specific applications.
Considerations
Sensitivity: Sensitivity are
adjustable in your software settings which affects how much finger movement is
needed to move the cursor a particular distance. Usually, you want it to be in
the middle, so its not too fast but not too slow. So, this is up to your
preference and use for it.
Acceleration: Some touchpads
allow you to adjust the acceleration of the cursor, which means the cursor will
move more faster while you move your finger more quickly, which can be good for
better accuracy because if not then your movements can be off by a bit which
can be bad if your use for it needs to be very accurate.
Custom gestures: Some
touchpads support custom gestures, which enables you to tailor the touchpads
behavior to your specific needs, so if you need shortcuts to like switch to
another app or show desktop then you can go to the windows settings if it
supports your certain laptop. You can make it certain patterns to other
shortcuts as well if that helps.
The touchpad is a versatile
input device that, while not as precise as a traditional mouse which is widely
used by most people, it offers the convenience of integration and portability,
which is especially useful for laptop users and those on the go.
Microphone
Microphones are audio input
devices that can capture sound and convert it into an electrical signal which
goes into your computer audio file and once then you can hear it through
speakers. They come in various forms and are used in a wide array of different
applications, from professional recording studios to the everyday use of the
microphone on smartphones.
Components
1. Diaphragm / Element:
This is the heart of the microphone. This component vibrates when it comes into
contact with sound. The vibrations are then converted into an electrical
signal. Diaphragms are usually made of paper, players, or various types of
metals.
2. Voice Coil: The
voice coil is found in dynamic microphones, it’s attacked to the diaphragm and
moves within its magnetic field, which then creates an electrical signal.
3. Magnet:
Magnets are essential in dynamic microphones. The magnet produces a magnetic
field which interacts with the voice coil. After that, the voice coil will
convert the sound into an electrical signal.
4. Capsule:
This component, houses the diaphragm and other internal components inside of
the microphone. Another type of microphone, like the condenser mics, it
includes the backplate that forms a capacitor with the diaphragm.
5. Electronics: In
condenser microphone and some dynamic mics, internal electronics amplify the
signal. This is where the phantom power will be used in condenser types.
6. Grille / Windscreen: The
outermost layer on the microphone, is often made out of metal or foam, which
reduces plosive sounds and protects the internal components. So, when you use
it, it will sound much better, and also that because of the metal, the
microphone will be sturdier too.
7. Body / Casing: The
body / casing is usually made of metal or hard plastic. This part will house
all of the internal components and electronics. The shape is often like a
cylindrical form factor for handheld use or other shapes for mounted types.
8. Connector: This could be an XLR, USB,
3.5mm, or other types of ports. These ports are used to connect your microphone
to an audio interface, computer, or amplifier. Depending on which microphone
you buy, this can vary. So, make sure to check if your computer supports it,
before buying it.
Features
1. Polar Pattern: This will
specify on how sensitive the microphone will be when the sound arrives at
different angles. There are 3 common types, which includes cardioid,
omnidirectional, and bidirectional.
2. Frequency Response. The
frequency response, indicates the range of sound frequencies that the microphone
can pick up. A flat response is usually for people who want a more natural
sound, while some may have tailored response to emphasize or dee-emphasize
certain frequencies.
3. Sensitivity: This
measures the microphone’s output level for a given sound pressure level.
Usually, a high sensitivity is recommended for quiet recordings, but it may
introduce noise in a louder setting. Depending on your preferences or needs,
this may vary for you.
4. Signal-to-Noise Ratio: This
feature will tell you a rough estimate of how much noise is likely to be heard
compared to the primary sound source. It’s better for less noise in the
background for better audio during your recording, and no disturbance.
5. Dynamic range: Dynamic
range allows the microphone to be able to change the microphone range, between
the quietest and loudest sound that the microphone can handle without any
distortion. If you use it for very loud sound, then you may want to range it louder,
but if you do ASMR, then quieter.
6. Max SPL (Sound Pressure
Level): This is also kind of like the Dynamic range, but this is for the
loudest sound a microphone can handle before distortion.
7. Impedance: One important
characteristic of a microphone is its output impedance. This is the measurement
of the AC resistance looking back into the microphone. Lower impedance is
generally better for long cable runs, while high impedance works for shorter
connections.
8. Pop Filter / Windscreen:
Some microphones come with extra accessories to reduce the plosive sounds (plosive
sounds are “p” and “B” sounds) and wind noise. If your microphone picks up too
much wind noise, or plosive sounds. Then this could be a good accessory for
you.
These are the components and
features of a microphone. We need to understand these as it can help us make
informed decision when selecting a microphone for your specific needs. Now I’ll
be talking about the different types of microphones.
Types of Microphones
1. Dynamic Microphones
Dynamic microphones have
usually a limited frequency response and less sensitive than regular ones. It
oftenly has a cardioid pickup pattern. A cardioid polar pattern basically is
when the microphone (which has it) picks up quality sound in a heart shape
pattern in front of the microphone. The sides of the microphone are less
sensitive but will still pick up a usable degree of sound at a closer range.
The components inside of a
Dynamic microphone includes, a Diaphgram, voice coil, magnet which all of them
combined creates an assembly, which moves within the magnetic field, generating
an electrical signal.
Pros:
Dynamic microphones are durable and moisture resistant. Which can be useful for
you, if you need something strong, and not easy to break. It can also help if
you live in a high humidity area, which then the moisture resistant can be
used.
It’s
good for high-SPL (Sound Pressure Levels) situations. For example, if you keep
screaming super loud, you can increase this so the microphone wont start
distorting its sound.
It doesn’t require phantom
power too. However, there are some very low output dynamic microphones, which
requires a preamp to boost its signal. If the preamp you connect the microphone
to is active, then you will need to turn the phantom power on.
Cons:
It sadly isn’t as sensitivity as condenser mics, and it may miss some audio
detail. Which depending on your use, it could be vital. So, make sure to look
out for these small details.
Dynamic microphones are
usually heavier than other types of microphones, so if you need a more
transportable, lighter microphone. Then you may want to look out for a
different type of microphone.
These microphones are
usually ideal for liver stage performance, podcasting, interviews, and studio
recording where durability and reliability are needed.
2. Condenser Microphones
Condenser microphones comes
with a wider frequency response and a louder output than dynamic microphones.
It’s also usually more sensitive.
The components inside of a Condenser
microphone includes, a lighter diaphragm which is closer to a backplate,
forming a capacitor. It also requires power from a battery source or phantom
power, so it can charge its internal electronics.
Pro: Because of its high
sensitivity, it can capture more detail. And it’s wide frequency response. This
basically tell you about the range of sound that a microphone can reproduce and
how its output varies within that range. The frequency response is probably one
of the most significant factors in determining the sound signature of a
microphone.
Cons:
Condenser microphones are more fragile, and not ideal for high pressure sound
levels. Which can be vital if you need something durable, for a longer life
expectancy. And possibly high-pressure sound levels if you need it for
screaming and funny clips for you.
It also requires power,
which can be a downside for people who don’t want to use a battery or phantom
power. This one isn’t really a big deal, but for people who aren’t looking for
one that uses extra power, then these types aren’t for you.
These are ideal for people
who are looking to record inside of studio, capturing vocals while your
singing, and acoustic instruments.
3. USB Microphones
USB Microphones are actually
pretty similar to condenser microphones. But instead, it has a built-in A/D
converter. It’s very convenient and portable to bring around as it connects
directly into, you’re USB port, which can super helpful if you don’t have a
certain port. So, if you need a good microphone while you’re travelling or in
place without much place, then this could be a pretty good option for you. It’s
also usually plug and play. You don’t have to download drivers sometimes, but
if you want to change some options or you’re using a high-end microphone. Then,
you probably have to.
Pros: It’s easy to set up as
all you need to do is just to plug it into your USB port, and you don’t need an
audio interface. These are pretty common to find so its affordable to get and
accessible either online, or offline stores.
Cons: USB microphones may be
easy to find and cheap, but they can be limited in terms of upgradeability and
modularity. It’s usually not as high quality (as expected), due to its low
price, unlike the traditional XLR microphones. Which are strong, high quality,
with very nice audio.
USB Microphones are usually
for people who are looking for a cheap option for their podcasting show, simple
recording setups, and streaming. These aren’t really recommended if you are
looking to use it for more high-end stuff or wanting to use it for a long time.
So, make sure to look out for more better ones if you have the budget and your
use for it.
4. Lavalier Microphones
This microphone can have 2
different pickup patterns, Omnidirectional or unidirectional. Omnidirectional
pickup pattern is when the microphone is designed to pickup sound from all
sides of the microphone, meaning that you can talk into the microphone at any
direction, and it will be able to capture the audio.
Unidirectional is basically
the opposite. This one is when the microphone can only pickup sound from ONE
direction. They have a polar patten, that’s designed to focus on sound coming
from a particular direction while excluding the sound from other directions.
So, for example, if you make it pickup sound only in the front and you’re
behind it. It won’t pick up the sound.
Lavalier microphones can
also be either wired, or wireless. So, if you want the least latency of the
audio, better of getting wired. But if you need a more minimalistic setup, with
barely wire for the cleanest set up as well. The microphone also has a small
diaphragm, which allows the microphone to be lightweight. On top of that, it
also has a clip-on design which can be used to clip on your shirt for a better
audio.
Pros: Because of the clip-on
design, it’s basically a hands-free operation. With that, the microphone will
also not get in your way any because its on your shirt. It can be wireless or
wired, depending on your use and liking, with the price not being too pricey
and pretty average.
Cons: It could pick up some
unwanted noise due to its position close to the mouth. So, possibly they could
hear you breathing, or your shirt moving sound. It also has a limited frequency
response, which provides a pretty big role as it defines the range of sound
that a microphone can reproduce and how its output varies within that range.
Lavalier microphones are
ideal for broadcast, interviews, and presentation for a more cleaner looking
microphone setup and without needing a big microphone stand, which could
require a lot of space.
5. Shotgun Microphones
Shotgun Microphones are a highly
directional microphone, which is basically like unidirectional microphone. So,
basically it will capture sound primarily from a VERY SPECIFIC direction, while
minimizing the sound pickup from the other directions. The reason it can do
this is because they use various techniques, like interference tubes, parabolic
reflectors, or advanced microphone capsules.
They are also usually
condenser base, which are a highly specialized capacitor. A capacitor, is a
passive electrical component that is designed to temporarily store energy in an
electric field. Capacitors work by using two plates in close proximity with one
another. (If you want more detail of this, you can do research yourself on the
internet)
(Also, shotgun microphones
look like a long, tubular design so that its able to capture sound from a
specific direction)
Pros: They are excellent for
isolating subjects in noisy environments, as it will only pick up sound to an
area that you put it at, and it wont pick up sound around it. It’s also has a
high sensitivity and a board frequency response, which is good for microphones.
Cons: A shotgun microphone
only picks up sound in a specific area, which can be a good thing. But it also
means that you need precise aiming to get it perfectly in your area. It’s also
often bulky and requires a boom pole or a mount, which if you don’t want to buy
any other accessories, it’s best not to go with this one then.
It’s ideal for films, TV,
outdoor interviews, and wildlife recording. So, if you need to use it for these
OR any other uses that could be ideal for this, go for it.
Each of these types of
microphones offers a different, unique benefits, and limitations. Which makes
them suitable for a variety of applications. The main key to finding the
correct microphone for you, is to understand your specific needs and operating
conditions. Goodluck!
Considerations
This is the final part of
microphones; this is about what you should consider when buying a microphone.
These will tell you some info, which should help you guide to picking your
decision.
1.
Purpose and Application
If your purpose for a
microphone is to record vocals, you should look for a microphone with a broad frequency
response and higher sensitivity. Which allows to the microphone to capture the
full range of vocal tones.
For instruments, it’s better
for a flat frequency response as its ideal to get a ‘truer’ sound of the
instrument.
As or interviews, lavalier
mics are popular here for their hands-free operation. As all you do is clip the
microphone onto your shirt.
The
last one is about field recording. A shotgun microphone would work pretty well
for isolating specific sounds in certain directions.
2.
Budget
Now this can really change
the quality of your microphone, as the less expensive, the worse quality. This
can determine on your pricing of microphones in your area, and the types there
are.
For Entry-Level or if you’re
starting to stream or record videos. The best is probably like 50$ for one.
Because you want one so that people can hear you good enough, and not too high
quality.
Mid-Range is when you’re
starting to build up a good fanbase. A budget I would recommend would probably
be, 75$ to 200$ depending on your income and type of content you make.
Professional
range is like 500$+ according to AI. Professional microphones can be very
expensive. A professional content creator microphone would probably be 400+,
but for professional work which requires a really high standard. It would
probably cost in the range of 600 to 9000 dollars depending on which one you
get.
3.
Polar Patterns
I already talked about Polar
patterns on one of the types of microphones, but this will be more straight
forward about the 3 types.
Cardioid pattern will
capture sound from the front, it isolates the background noise. This type of
polar pattern is ideal for studio recording or live sound.
Omnidirectional will capture
sound from all directions. So, no matter which direction you’re speaking into
the microphone, it will still pick up the sound. This one is good for
conference or theatre settings.
Bidirectional
captures sound from the front and back. It won’t pick up sound on the sides,
which can be useful for face-to-face interviews.
4.
Frequency Response
Flat Frequency represent all
frequencies equally. It’s best for capturing ‘natural’ sound.
Tailored
Frequency is a type which is designed to emphasize or de-emphasize specific
frequencies to suit a particular application.
5.
Sensitivity
There are 2 types of
sensitivity, high and low sensitivity.
High sensitivity is good for
studios settings where background noises can be controlled.
Low
sensitivity is better for live stage settings where background noise can become
an issue.
6.
Connectivity
This is the port that your
microphone will use. It could be a USB port, XLR, wireless or 3.5mm.
XLR: It’s balanced, low
noise, but it requires an audio interface which can be expensive or annoying
saying that you have to buy an extra component to use a certain microphone.
USB: A USB port is easy to
use, although often its not as high quality. But a USB is in all laptops. No
matter what laptop you have, it could be USB 2.0, 3.0 or 3.1, every laptop has
it.
3.5mm: This is convenient
for smaller devices like phones, but its not really ideal for people who do
professional recording, as its best for beginners or to people who want to do
like TikTok’s or YouTube shorts (or pretty much anything that requires a cheap
microphone).
Wireless:
Wireless microphones offer a freedom of movement as it requires no cables,
although it may compromise on sound quality. So, if you need a minimalistic,
clean setup, or you keep moving the microphone, you may want to get wireless
then.
7.
Portability
Another
thing to consider is the portability of it. If you need to bring a lot of stuff
during travel, you have to think about if you need to move, will you travel
with your microphone? If you do carry by case, will it come with a protective
case or a durable case during travel? These questions will determine if you
need to get a portable microphone.
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